Brit Shauna Coxsey says first ever Olympic climbing gold medal 'within reach' after World Championship bronze

After finishing third in the Combined section of the World Climbing Championships in Tokyo on Tuesday, Shauna Coxsey believes she is perfectly placed to win her sport’s first ever Olympic gold medal at next summer’s games in Japan.

“I think it’s entirely possible I can win it,” she said after her bronze medal climbs. “I’ve proven I can be in top spot in qualification, then in the final I got a personal best in the speed discipline and broke my own British record. I know if I train really well and I stay injury free then that gold medal is within my reach.”

It was, she added, the first time she had ever stated her belief that she could do it. Until now, her focus had been entirely on qualification; she had not allowed herself the luxury of thinking about what might happen in Tokyo.

But now, following her performance in the World Championships, she has guaranteed that she will be one of the 20 athletes competing in the inaugural Olympic climbing event, and is allowing herself to envisage topping the podium.

“Because I qualified for the final in top position, to know I can be first place makes a huge difference psychologically - especially as I’m certain I can get faster, fitter, stronger,” she said.

With only one gold medal available in climbing, the competition will be a new one, combining the three disciplines of speed, lead and bouldering. Until now, Coxsey has been a specialist in bouldering, twice becoming world champion.

As preparation for next summer, at the World Championships each athlete was obliged to compete in all three disciplines, then in a final combination.

“It was a brutal schedule,” she said. “To do all three championships then the Combined was absolutely exhausting both mentally and physically. A lot of the climbers  came away with their finger tips bleeding. But I know this sounds ridiculous: I actually found it a lot of fun.”

Now that qualification is in the bag, Coxsey will take a short break from her intensive training regime.

“I think my coaches need a break as much as me. It was really tough for them too,” she said.

After that, she is unsure of what her schedule will be. One thing she does know is that she will not now be obliged to compete in the second Olympic qualification series in Toulouse in November.

“Actually, the seven of us who have already qualified aren’t allowed to take part,” she explained. “It will give me a brilliant opportunity just to watch in Toulouse. Gaining an outside perspective from stepping away from the wall could be really helpful. Usually you only get it when you are injured.”

Of one thing Coxsey is sure, however: after competing in Japan in the World Championships she is convinced the Olympic climbing event will be one of the highlights of next summer’s games.

“I think it is going to be a huge event. There’s so much support from the locals, there were posters up all over the city and the crowd were really knowledgeable,” she said. “Tokyo will be the perfect stage for us to prove we belong in the Olympics. I’m so lucky to know already that I’ll be there.”