Advertisement

Marine Serre Men’s Fall 2024

The Marine Serre man is ready for his close-up.

Seven years after founding her label, the French designer has decided to split her men’s and women’s collections, unveiling her first stand-alone menswear line in a showroom presentation, with plans to move her runway show back onto the women’s calendar.

More from WWD

“I’ve wanted to do this for a while, but I also wanted it to be substantial and well-rounded,” she said of the 33-look collection. “I realized talking with men that they love the brand, but they know it mainly through their girlfriends.”

Fans of her eco-conscious label will find her signature upcycled creations, such as shirts made from old bedsheets and silk scarves, alongside a growing selection of basics produced with responsible or certified fibers.

Serre’s signature crescent moon appears on everything from jeans, which come in straight, large and curved cuts; T-shirts ranging from second-skin tops to a dégradé cotton version, and leather jackets and pants.

But she’s also beefed up her business attire. Alongside a selection of jacquard tailored pieces, wool coats and argyle knits, the brand is launching its first loafer.

As she scales up her business, leather is one of several materials she has switched to producing herself. The material in her gray leather pants with an airbrushed crescent moon motif, for instance, is certified REACH and ISO 9001.

“In the beginning when we were working with deadstock, there were quality issues,” Serre explained.

“The evolution of the house means that we have traded some upcycling for certified and recycled materials, because it’s hard to source upcycled pieces and to have prices in line with the current climate. Therefore, if I want to grow the house, they have to remain exclusive, unique pieces like couture,” she added.

With that, she summed up the basic conundrum of sustainable fashion. In its purest form, it’s only available to a select few at a high cost. Democratize it, and you’re entering a complex system of labels that can be hard for the consumer to unpack.

Serre pointed out that brands that combine a designer aesthetic, fair pricing and environmentally responsible materials are still rare on the market. Ssense, Dover Street Market and Boon the Shop already carry hers. Others surely will follow.

For more PFW reviews, click here.

Launch Gallery: Marine Serre Men's Fall 2024

Best of WWD