Meet the Designers Making Their New York Fashion Week Debuts This Season

Another whirlwind week of non-stop fashion in the Big Apple is nearly here. New York Fashion Week is home to industry icons such as Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors and Thom Browne, but the Fall 2024 lineup also features a slew of newcomers poised to join their ranks.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Meruert Tolegen are coming stateside for the first time to debut their latest collections. Colleen Allen, Onsirin and more are also preparing for their debuts. Keep reading for all the details on this season's first-timers.

Câllas Milano

Câllas Milano Spring 2024.<p>Photo: Penélope Blas/Courtesy of Câllas</p>
Câllas Milano Spring 2024.

Photo: Penélope Blas/Courtesy of Câllas

From blouses in eye-catching prints to silk scarves, Câllas Milano — founded by Marco Panzeri and Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann in 2020 — creates luxury women's clothing inspired by the Milanese. It tapped designer Derek Lam (Schlottmann's husband and business partner) as its creative director in January; he will present his first capsule for the brand at New York Fashion Week on Feb. 10.

Colleen Allen

A look by Colleen Allen.<p>Photo: Colleen Allen</p>
A look by Colleen Allen.

Photo: Colleen Allen

Previously a menswear designer for The RowColleen Allen will debut a womenswear collection under new her eponymous label this season. Fall 2024 is inspired by the 19th century and explores the juxtaposition between introversion and extroversion.

Meruert Tolegen

Meruert Tolegen.<p>Photo: Courtesy of Meruert Tolegen</p>
Meruert Tolegen.

Photo: Courtesy of Meruert Tolegen

After pursuing a career in the bio-sciences, Meruert Tolegen shifted her focus to fashion, first with the luxury children's brand La Petite Anaïs and then with a New York-based eponymous womenswear label. Launched in 2020, it blends European design with elements of her Kazakh culture. Meruert Tolegen first made its debut at Paris Fashion Week during Fall 2022, and will now make its NYFW runway debut on Feb. 13.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Ludovic de Saint Sernin.<p>Photo: Diego Villarreal/Courtesy of Ludovic de Saint Sernin</p>
Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Photo: Diego Villarreal/Courtesy of Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Ludovic de Saint Sernin launched his eponymous fashion label in 2017, which has been worn by stars such as Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Olivia Rodrigo and Troye Sivan. The Brussels-born, Paris-raised designer approaches fashion without gender in mind, weaving a thread of sensuality throughout his designs. Ludovic de Saint Sernin has shown collections on both the men's and women's Paris Fashion Week calendars; it's coming to New York for one season only on Feb. 11.


Onsirin Buranupakorn.<p>Photo: Courtesy of Onsirin</p>
Onsirin Buranupakorn.

Photo: Courtesy of Onsirin

Onsirin, a luxury ready-to-wear brand founded in 2023, will show at NYFW for the first time on Feb. 10 at Sony Hall, in partnership with Runway7. After being raised in Thailand and studying at Parsons, designer Onsirin Buranupakorn blends traditional feminine silhouettes with a sense of edginess.


Yitao Li.<p>Photo: Courtesy of Yitao Li</p>
Yitao Li.

Photo: Courtesy of Yitao Li

Yitao Li founded Taottao in 2022 with a goal to champion individuality while incorporating playfulness and sensuality into the designs. The brand will present its Fall 2024 collection, which is inspired by vintage cartoons, on Feb. 14.


A look by Akki.<p>Photo: Courtesy of Akki</p>
A look by Akki.

Photo: Courtesy of Akki

Founded in 2021, Akki is a luxury fashion label that emphasizes multi-cultural artistry through bold silhouettes. Designer Akki Zhao will make her NYFW runway debut on Feb. 13 with a collection titled "Lucid Jade," which will be an "immersive dream-like experience," per the brand.

Nat Geo Presents: 'Fit for a Queen'

National Geographic is making its NYFW debut on Feb. 10 in honor of the March 4 premiere of "Queens," a docu-series narrated by Angela Bassett that explores six worlds run by female leaders in the animal kingdom. The immersive fashion show will feature looks from JêBlanc, Theophilio, Studio 189, Bed on Water, Almasika, L'Enchanteur, Téjahn Burnett and more.

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