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TikTokers are going crazy for this skincare ingredient that's more powerful than retinol
Once confined to a doctor's office, talk of tretinoin–a prescription-strength, pure form of retinoid–is entering the online world.
With over 300 million views on Gen-z favourite platform TikTok and growing Google searches, it's dominating algorithms for its ability to treat acne as well as fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
But it's not all roses, unfortunately: as more experts take to the platform to express concern of the unsolicited advice and hype surrounding it, you might be left wondering whether it'll mean more grief than glow for your skin.
Here to set the record straight, WH speaks to dermatologist Dr Elif Benar and Dermatica's Consultant Dermatologist Dr Catriona Maybury. about the 'what', 'why' and 'how' of this buzzy ingredient...
So, what is tretinoin?
'Tretinoin is an FDA-approved topical retinoid that is mainly used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and sun-damaged skin,'explains Dr Elif. 'Whilst the topical treatment works by accelerating the process of removal of dead skin cells, it also increases collagen production, works on pigmentation and reduces pore visibility,' he continues.
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Known as retinoic acid, this vitamin A derivative is a more powerful retinoid compared to anti-ageing hero, retinol. To that end, it's classed as a medication and is only available via prescription as a topical cream, although you can find it in prescriptive treatments from Skin+ Me and Dermatica.
What does tretinoin actually do?
It treats acne by reducing inflammation, preventing follicular plugging and exfoliating the skin, says Dr Elif. 'It's FDA approved as a treatment for acne vulgaris (spots and oily skin) and it helps your skin regulate its natural sebum production – preventing future breakouts.'
It helps sun-damaged skin. This topical cream can aid some of the damage caused by the long-term effects of UV exposure; it work by speeding up your skin’s production of new skin cells.
It targets fine lines. 'Think of tretinoin like a fast-forward button for your skin turnover cycle, allowing your body to replace older skin cells with fresher skin cells. It also stimulates collagen production and blood supply too,' says Dr Elif.
How does tretinoin treat acne?
Tretinoin stimulates collagen production and increases skin cell turnover, allowing healthy new skin cells to be brought up to the surface.
'This can improve skin texture and reduce areas of pigmentation. Retinoids, such as Tretinoin, are a really versatile and effective active ingredient,' explains Dr Catriona Maybury.
Can all skin types use tretinoin?
Tretinoin can be a great solution for anyone with melasma, hyperpigmentation or acne scars. Bu the issue lies in the purge, and anyone with sensitive skin should avoid it altogether.
'Tretinoin is only available with a doctor’s prescription, so make sure you consult a dermatologist if you’re looking to add it to your routine,' says Dr Elif.
If you are worried about irritation then Dr Maybury says that there is evidence to show that Adapalene, another prescription retinoid, causes less irritation than tretinoin for those with acne. 'Both are suitable, but the skin can be inflamed and sensitive from breakouts so we try and minimise this for consumer ease where we can,' she adds.
What are the possible dangers of using tretinoin?
Heard of the 'purge'? The period of inflamed, red and flaking dry skin that happens post-application – currently trending on TikTok. This usually happens when there is a reaction to an active ingredient increasing cell turnover rate, though some people might see side effects last a little longer.
Indeed, tretinoin comes with a double edge sword, warns Dr Elif. 'Yes, tretinoin does accelerate cell turnover, stimulates cell generation and sloughs away dead skin cells, however, there is also the ‘purge’ to think about,' he adds. 'The purge means your skin is adjusting to the treatment and is learning to repair itself – usually resulting in skin redness, dryness, scaling, mild burning or worsening of the acne.'
How often should you use tretinoin?
'It’s best to start slowly, using tretinoin 2 to 3 nights a week, then upping your frequency as your skin adjusts,' urges Dr Elif.
'Furthermore, whilst your skin goes through the ‘purge’ period, there are many steps you can take to ease discomfort, like drinking water and applying sunscreen. Hydrating cleansers with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help with the purging.' The best thing you can do is start slowly and be as gently with your skin as possible – and always speak with your dermatologist before introducing new ingredients.
Finally, says Dr Elif, 'don't use skincare that contains benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, resorcinol, or salicylic acid, as they can cause severe skin irritation if used in conjunction with tretinoin.'
Do retinol and tretinoin do the same thing?
'Tretinoin is a prescription retinoid, which is much more powerful than any retinols you can get over the counter such as retinol or retinal. Tretinoin increases skin cell turnover and unclog pores and can also improve pigmentation while also preventing collagen breakdown,' reveals Dr Maybury.
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