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Mineral vs chemical sunscreen: What's the difference?
We all know that sunscreen is absolutely vital for protecting your skin. It helps prevent sunburn, skin cancer, and premature ageing – so finding a sunscreen you love is important.
But with so many new and brilliant formulas out there, buying sunscreen has become more confusing than ever. From chemical to mineral formulas, and what number SPF you should use (the NHS recommends an SPF level of at least 30, just FYI) – there are a few different things to consider when choosing the right formula for you.
But let's start with the mineral vs chemical debate. What actually is the difference between the two types of sunscreen and just how accurate are the claims that mineral sunscreen is better for the environment? Let's take a look...
What is the difference between mineral and chemical SPF?
Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays from the sun and convert them into heat, before releasing them from your body so that your skin is not damaged.
Mineral sunscreens work in a very similar way – also absorbing the UV rays but they also create a physical barrier on your skin which reflects a small amount of the sun’s rays away.
‘Mineral sun creams are extremely unlikely to cause allergy, so they’re perfect for those with sensitive skin’, advises consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. ‘If pigmentation issues are a problem e.g. melasma, I’d usually advise looking for a high factor broad spectrum mineral sun cream as if is probably the best at protecting against all unwanted wavelengths of light.’
How do you know if your formula is mineral or chemical?
Mineral sunscreens contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Chemical formulas use ingredients like avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and others.
It's important to note that both formulas contain chemicals – and just because something is labelled as 'mineral' doesn't make it inherently good and something labelled 'chemical' doesn't mean it's bad. Both are safe and the formula you choose is mostly down to personal preference. The most important thing to consider when choosing an SPF is how likely are you to use it every day.
Mineral vs chemical sunscreen: how do they look?
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are both white minerals, which Ada Ooi, celebrity facialist and founder of 001 Skincare, explains that this can make them 'harder to be colour adaptive to darker skin tones'.
'The physical filtering factor can bounce off not only outdoor light but indoor light too, resulting in a very white face in your selfies,' she says.
Meanwhile, chemical sunscreens are 'usually lighter and more opaque so are easily absorbable, making them easier to control under make-up and in photos,' she adds.
If you're concerned about a white cast – check out our best sunscreens for melanin-rich skin, all of which promise superior protection with no ashy finish.
Is mineral sunscreen better for the environment?
Although mineral sunscreen is thought to be better for the environment, cosmetic scientist and founder of the Jen Novakovich explains on her IG channel The Eco Well that it's not as straightforward as "mineral is good and chemical is bad," yet that it often how the two are portrayed.
She told users that sourcing zinc, one of the ingredients in mineral sunscreen, is an 'intensive' process whereby zinc may be released into the environment, which is an ecologic concern.
Essentially, she says: 'I’m not saying don’t use mineral sunscreen, but maybe stop claiming that your sunscreens are more eco-friendly because they are mineral.'
The impact of sunscreen on coral reefs has also been widely discussed when it comes to mineral vs chemical. Save The Reef explains that the term 'reef-friendly' is not actually regulated, so instead you need to look at the active ingredients on the label.
Avoid sunscreens with Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, PABA, Parabens, and Triclosan as these can harm coral reefs.
If you are using mineral sunscreen, you need to be aware of the size of the minerals. Micro-sized or non-nano mineral sunscreens avoid nanoparticles, which can be toxic in high concentrations.
Choosing the best sunscreen for you
When it comes to choosing the right sunscreen for you – personal preference plays a huge part, after all – the most important thing is that you apply it liberally.
Check out our 10 best sunscreens, loved by dermatologists, skin experts and the Women's Health team here.
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