The news cycle may have been about as titillating as a slap in the face for much of this year, but for a handful in the fashion sphere, there has been a brief respite.
As per today’s Lyst report - which examines the behaviour of 100 million shoppers each year to track consumer demand - for a handful of fashion’s PYTs, 2020 has sent searches for their respective brands skyrocketing.
While some of the breakout brands are no surprise - Marine Serre and Telfar have caused a sartorial stir in a loud and proud way - others are embracing their underdog status, and will no doubt reap the rewards.
From Los Angelenos Fear of God and Chinatown Market to London born and bred Martine Rose, there is a slew of brands and designers that perhaps you haven’t heard of now, but get them on your radar because they’re the Next Big Things.
French designer Marine Serre’s designs have been championed by everybody, from Adele to Beyonce. It will come as no surprise that searches for her soared by 426 per cent in the 48 hours following Queen Bey’s endorsement in her visual album Black is King. You’ll find us riding out the rest of the year in Serre’s new season psychedelic moon-print jersey top.
New York-based bag designer Telfar Clemens is responsible for what has been dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin” and it’s been spotted on the arm of Bella Hadid, Solange Knowles, and Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio Cortez. Since Clemen’s eponymous brand Telfar launched a one-day-only pre-sale for its award-winning accessory in August, searches have increased by 270 per cent each week. It might only be able to squeeze in your phone and a hand sanitiser, but the Telfar embossed logo tote bag (£197) in baby pink might as well just run off with our money now.
1017 Alyx 9SM
Searches for New York brand 1017 Alyx 9SM have risen by 610 per cent this year and spiked when the brand collaborated with big names like Nike, Moncler, and Mackintosh among others. Lyst anticipates that searches will only increase more over the upcoming year, given that its founder Matthew Williams is now the creative director of Givenchy, a role he assumed in June. Luckily for us, its Nightrider funnel-neck hooded shell jacket (£815) is currently in the Selfridges 20 per cent off sale … *adds to bag*
Pyer Moss’ founder Kerby Jean-Raymond was named global creative director of Reebok in September following a successful collaboration with the athleisurewear brand. This, in turn, catapulted searches for his men’s and womenswear label by 220 per cent. We’re crossing all of our fingers that our stockings are laced with several pairs of those spicy Pyer Moss socks.
Dubbed “the coolest brand you’ve never heard of”, searches for Casablanca spiked 77 per cent over the past three months. The menswear brand - whose fans include Travis Scott and J Balvin - launched its debut womenswear line in August. The slightly chintzy resort brand draws its inspiration from France and Morocco and churns out covetable collections bursting with pattern-heavy maximalism.
Fear of God
With a 1.8 million strong following on Instagram, Fear of God has the biggest social media following of all of the Lyst breakout brands and counts Justin Bieber amongst its legion of fans. The cult streetwear label specialises in understated basics with unisex appeal.
Since menswear designer Martine Rose teamed up with Italian brand Napapijri in 2017 on a hyped outerwear collection, her eponymous label has only gone from strength to strength. “Martine Rose Fleece” is one of the most searched keywords on Google for the London brand, and its searches went up by 354 per cent in April alone. In the market for some funky fashion flare? Look no further than Rose’s pieces.
Los Angeles streetwear label and creative collective Brain Dead has been steadily climbing the ranks from its low-key, cult favorite status, with searches for the brand increasing by 120 per cent each year. Brain Dead takes its inspirations from post-punk, skateboarding, and underground comics. We’ll take several of its ‘The Exorcist’ jumpers, thanks very much.
Searches for Sunnei have increased 108 per cent each year, and its increased prominence looks set to increase even further following its acquisition by the owner of influencer-favourite fashion brand Nanushka in September. Rather conveniently, its comfort-first designs will slot seamlessly into our WFH wardrobes.
The Los Angeles streetwear label has been prolific with its collaborations in 2020 and to much success. Searches for Chinatown Market went up six times during the summer after the release of its partnership with the Grateful Dead on a pair of Crocs clogs. The brand - which was created as an ode to New York City - crafts whimsical pieces which encapsulate the freneticism of Canal Street. Our favourite pieces are the baseball hats which, frankly, we need in every colour.