McArthur says result won't define him as he makes Olympic climbing final

By Tom Harle at Le Bourget

Climber Hamish McArthur says he won’t be defined by what happens in the Olympic final.

Having finished eighth in the bouldering stage, the 23-year-old came sixth in the lead section of the combined event.

That means the York native took the eighth and last spot in Friday’s final, exceeding expectations to the extent that his family hadn’t even bought tickets.

McArthur was a prodigious junior, crowned double world champion at age-group level, but hit a wall as he moved into the senior ranks and put pressure on himself to perform.

He emerged from the Covid-19 lockdowns with a different approach upon which he has leant heavily on his Olympic debut.

“I’ve been a lot better at making sure that I'm (competing) for the right reasons and for myself,” he said.

“These moments are for the enjoyment of my life. I try to think of it like that, and I just put way less pressure on it.

“It's not based on my identity. I'm not needing to do it for anyone else or for any other reason than to make myself proud."

Britain are the only nation to have qualified two men for the combined final with McArthur set to be joined by Surrey teenager Toby Roberts.

The sport made its debut in Tokyo in an unsatisfactory heptathlon-style format that saw bouldering, lead and speed climbing combined into one event.

Boulder and lead have been separated out for Paris in a move that McArthur massively favours.

“I love the format, I think it’s great,” said McArthur.

“I feel like the competition is quite interesting tactically speaking, it helps split the field a little with the different formats and it is entertaining for the crowd.

“I love watching speed climbing, I think it’s unbelievable, but I have never been a speed climber!”

Climbing is also unique in that, during the timed familiarisation period they have to scope out the route, athletes share knowledge and potential approaches.

“What we’re trying to do is get a group consensus on how to climb the route,” said McArthur. “It’s not really dependent on what one person says to another person, because we’re speaking to lots of different guys.

“But we want to put on a show for the crowd and we’re trying to share ideas and make sure no-one makes any drastic errors. You try to get ideas from the people who have been doing it for the longest time.”

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